Shropshire Magazine

Assiette of six desserts. Oh, what hardships a reviewer has to put up with in the course of his job . . .

Neil Thomas enjoys some thoroughly modern cooking in the thoroughly unmodern surroundings of Drapers’ Hall in Shrewsbury.

Pictures: Russell Davies

I clearly need to pep up my romantic dinner conversation. When the attractive blonde date comments on how smart and warm the cast iron stove in the corner of the restaurant is then clearly I’m failing to engage her interest.

If this were a first date, there’d be very little prospect of her granting me a second.

I’ll wager that Lord Byron never got to be a noted ladies’ man by talking about grouting.

It’s time to polish the bon mots, refine the anecdotes and jazz up the small talk.

The attractive blonde is my wife, this is far from being a first date, and you could argue that many years together leads to the level of familiarity that allows dinner conversation to stray into the minutiae of domesticity. But that is a lame excuse. Although it’s not written into the wedding vows, my many marital duties surely include the obligation to entertain and amuse her.

Oscar Wilde was married a dozen years or so but I can’t, at any point, picture him mentioning to Constance over the petits fours that the gutters needed clearing out. Devoted to his family though he was, Wilde never appeared to worry too much about what he did and said in public, which is presumably why he ended up in prison then penniless. It is also why he left some of the finest caustic witticisms in the English language.

The only time he appeared to take an interest in home improvement was on his deathbed, when he is reputed to have uttered: “Either that wallpaper goes or I do.”

Seared scallops with cucumber ribbons, sweet chilli sauce and creme fraiche.

Elegant

Still, who can compete with that? So I agree with my wife Vanessa that the stove would look very elegant in our conservatory and clear up the condensation problem. I’m just about to make some pulse-quickening remark about the need for replacement windows when the appetisers arrive.

All thoughts of stoves and windows vanish as we contemplate the riches before us. This is food of the very highest quality. Canapés are nibbles of smoked salmon blini, Parma ham, pâté and fresh-fruit kebab. There is also toasted olive bread with hummus, salsa and guacamole dips.

“This would make a great light lunch,” says Vanessa.

It would, but luckily this is dinner so there are three more courses to follow. Gluttony is not only permitted but, in the reviewer’s role, obligatory.

Huxley’s at Drapers’ Hall in Shrewsbury has a fine reputation and after the excellence of the appetisers we are looking forward to the rest of the meal. We’re not disappointed.

Vanessa loves her three juicy seared scallops with chilli dressing, while my starter of caramelised onion soup with gratinated Gruyère cheese is delicious, rich in flavour and just the ticket for a freezing winter’s evening.

Caramelised onion soup with gratinated gruyere cheese.

To follow, my chicken is so tender it barely needs a knife to cut it. It virtually melts onto the fork. It comes with fresh vegetables – baby carrots and green beans – dauphinoise potatoes and ham poached in a delicious rich stock with roasted zampone. It is exquisite, wholesome, beautifully prepared food, a wonderful miscellany of flavours that perfectly complement one another. As with the soup, it’s a wonderful winter warmer.

Vanessa’s halibut comes perched on crispy bubble and squeak with crispy bacon and a poached egg, and is, she says, superb.

Dessert is simply stunning. Rather than choose one of the several mouthwatering offerings, we go for the assiete which, for a bargain £15, offers a taste of six. Except it turns out to be rather more than a taste - a little nearer the entire dessert. This is exceptional value for money.

Delights

The centrepiece is a wonderful, oozing chocolate fondant around which are circled five further homemade delights – a meringue, coconut ice-cream, panettone bread-and-butter pudding, a very rich chocolate mousse, and raspberry brulée. There are also a few juicy, palate-freshening raspberries and strawberries.

Steamed halibut with bubble-and-squeak potato cake and poached egg with bacon.

This is a work of art. Less inspired arrangements have been awarded Arts Council grants and gone on show at Tate Modern.

It looks so good it almost seems a crime to eat it. Almost.

So we tuck in. It tastes every bit as good as it looks . . . and that is very, very good.

Double espressos with delicious chocolates are a perfect way to round off the meal – and regular coffee top-ups are offered by the delightful staff. For this is the epitome of service with a smile. This is A-grade waiting-on – informal while remaining efficient; friendly without being intrusive.

Those of you who have already visited Drapers’ Hall won’t need reminding what a magnificent setting it is. Once visited, it leaves an indelible impression.

The Elizabethan Drapers’ Hall dates back to 1576 and is one of the oldest buildings in Shrewsbury. The interior is magnificent and still contains some of its 17th-century furniture. It is rather an inspiring thought that you can touch that which was touched by a fellow human traveller four centuries ago.

Proprietors Nigel and Sharon Huxley.

Exposed beams, a spectacular period fireplace and elegant wood panelling provide a stimulating setting for fine dining.

The man to thank for this culinary and esoteric delight in the heart of Shropshire’s county town is owner/chef Nigel Huxley.

It is his brilliance in the kitchen which gives Drapers’ its deserved reputation for excellence. It is 10 years since he launched his restaurant and provided for us a place to feed not only the body but the soul.

For an evening at Drapers’ not only guarantees the finest food presented with flair, but a candlelit brush with beauty, elegance and culture.

For a few brief hours we are a small part of the ongoing Shrewsbury story, feasting where Tudor folk once banqueted in this most historic of English shire towns.

It’s a snip at £98.70 for two.

•  Drapers’ Hall, 10 St Mary’s Place, Shrewsbury SY1 1DZ. Telephone 01743 344679; www.drapershallrestaurant.co.uk

The interior of the restaurant will transport you back in time.