Shropshire Magazine

Powis Castle.

Neil Thomas enjoys dinner with a difference in the grand surroundings of a National Trust treasure

Powis Castle is said to be one of Prince Charles’ favourite haunts. The heir to the throne has lodged there on numerous occasions, often when visiting the Royal Welsh Show in the summer.

You can see the attraction as you contemplate the magnificent red stone castle or gaze out from its elevated position over its own sumptuous gardens – which the Prince describes as the most beautiful in Britain – and the dreamy Shropshire/Welsh border countryside beyond.

Winter root-vegetable soup provides a warming bowlful.

It is truly a spot to escape the blurring pace of modern life and contemplate the tranquility and beauty on your doorstep. 

So what’s good enough for the Prince of Wales is good enough for me. Well, nearly: he dines in the castle’s private quarters owned by the Earl of Powis, whereas I decided to check out the castle’s restaurant, run by the National Trust and reserved for mere commoners like me.

Not that there’s anything remotely common about the food or service, which are both excellent.

Every December the Trust puts on a limited series of Christmas lunches at weekends, tables for which always tend to be in great demand. Happily we managed to secure a reservation and went along to see for ourselves why they are so popular. Driving along the winding roadway, spotting the majestic deer roaming through the woodland and approaching the imposing main building towering high above you, you are immediately struck by a sense of occasion.

We’ve dined in many restaurants in Shropshire and its borders but rarely one so steeped in history.

Game pie with rich, buttery pastry.

Though the castle – a structure of architectural magnificence – has had several additions and renovations over the centuries, the site began as a medieval stronghold for Welsh princes as long ago as the 12th century. In 1196 it was captured by the English under Archbishop Hubert Walter. Prince Gruffudd backed the English Edward I in1277, following the defeat of the Welsh, and was able to rebuild his castle which had been damaged by war. His son Owain, the last Prince of Powys, also built at the site in the early 14th century and some of what we see today dates from this era.

In 1587, Powis came into the possession of Sir Edward Herbert, nephew of  Henry VIII’s sixth and surviving wife Catherine Parr.

During the religious upheavals of the 16th and 17th centuries, the Herberts remained Catholic, with Sir Edward’s son, William, marrying Lady Eleanor Percy, whose father was executed for plotting with Mary, Queen of Scots, against Queen Elizabeth. A wooden rosary belonging to Mary is now displayed at Powis. William became 1st Lord Powis under Charles I in 1629 and remained a Royalist throughout the Civil War. Parliamentary troops captured the castle in 1644 and William’s son, Percy, 2nd Lord Powis was convicted of treason and imprisoned. After his release he began restoration of the castle but it was his son who transformed Powis into a Baroque palace in the Stuart era. 

However, as religious troubles continued to divide the nation periods of rising fortune contrasted with downfall and exile for subsequent earls. Money troubles and the lack of an heir eventually saw the castle bequeathed to Henry Arthur Herbert of Chirbury, the first Protestant owner. He was created the 1st Earl of Powis. However, when his son died without an heir, the castle passed to his nephew, the grandson of Robert Clive of India. This led to the castle building up its famed Clive collection of oriental treasures. Edward, 2nd Earl of Powis, carried out major repairs and refurbishments and the young Princess Victoria visited Powis in 1832, five years before becoming Queen. Edward was accidently shot dead by his son during a pheasant shoot in 1848.

The 3rd Earl never married and in 1891, his nephew George inherited Powis. He was blighted by tragedy, though, losing his elder son in the Battle of the Somme, his wife in a car crash in 1929 and his surviving son in a plane crash during active duty in 1942. He left Powis and an endowment for its upkeep to the National Trust in 1952, although the present Earl of Powis retains an apartment.

And that’s the potted version. Colourful history, in other words, seeps from every pore. The great and good have trod the courtyard you yourself traverse to get to the atmospheric restaurant, with its stone walls, low lighting and mullioned windows. Many of the turbulent events of our nation’s history shaped the lives of those who passed along these corridors.

Lunch in the 21st century is, thankfully, a far from turbulent affair. The Powis catering staff pride themselves on the provenance of their food and are keen to source great Welsh produce, which is then excellently cooked by talented young chefs Andrew Turner and Mandy Jones, who are both in their early 20s. Service, under the watchful eye of catering manager Simon Ebrey, is smooth, courteous and efficient. This all makes for an enjoyable experience. 

Blackberry meringue.

My venison and onion puff-pastry tartlet was a fabulous start to the meal. The meat was tender and bursting with flavour and the separate strip of buttery pastry was a nice touch. 

My wife Vanessa’s Welsh trout and dill mousse was rich, creamy and flavoursome.

Son Wil chose winter root-vegetable soup and was rewarded with a deep bowlful which can’t have been far off containing his recommended daily five portions of fruit and veg. Given that you are lucky with most kids to get them to eat five a month, this was a bonus we hadn’t counted on. It was a warming dish on a chilly December afternoon, to boot.

We all three tucked into a main course of roast Welsh turkey, with roast and boiled potatoes, sprouts, carrots, chestnut stuffing and all the other usual trimmings. I generally eat around a dozen turkey dinners during December and they can blend one into another – other, obviously, than the ‘stand out’ one on Christmas Day cooked by my mother-in-law (he added, hastily). Powis Castle’s offering, though, was exceptional. The meat was succulent and packed with flavour and the vegetables cooked to perfection. We all agreed it was a triumph.

The other options of honey-roasted glazed Welsh gammon, fillet of salmon with Hollandaise sauce and, for vegetarians, carrot and pine nut roast, give you some idea of the type of dining on offer at Powis Castle.

Wil and I both enjoyed the devilish chocolate roulade dessert, while Vanessa devoured a large helping of hazlenut pavlova. Christmas pudding with brandy sauce was also an option.

This was a delightful lunch in stimulating surroundings and I’d heartily recommend it, though obviously you’ll have to wait 11 months. You won’t, however, have to wait that long to sample the culinary delights of the Powis Castle kitchen. Special menus are being created for March to celebrate St David’s Day and Mothering Sunday and, of course, the restaurant is open throughout spring and summer during castle opening times.

• Powis Castle, Welshpool. Telephone 01938 551927.

Chefs Mandy Jones and Andrew Turner.