Shropshire Magazine

They say the beginning is a very good place to start. But to anyone planning a meal at the Hundred House it might be worth starting at the end and working backwards, finds Jaclyn Green.

Pictures: Mike Hayward

Based on the dreamy double chocolate mousse and homemade ice-creams and sorbets I and my husband enjoyed on a chilly January night, this quirky hotel’s restaurant offers the most impressive desserts I have tasted in a long time.

But below a really great looking pudding list on the menu – including variations of treacle tart, poached pears, double chocolate mousse, hazelnut meringue and crème brulée – sat the pick of the bunch, appropriately named The Ultimate Dessert.

Coriander-cured salmon with peanut salad and lime dressing.

It was described as: “A selection of the above sweets in one dish. Served with fresh fruit and homemade ice-cream”, with a warning that it could take up to 20 minutes to prepare.

We gave it serious consideration, but the hearty winter meals we had already devoured made the decision for us. Any attempt to conquer the Ultimate would be futile.

So, as I suggested, it might be best to start at the end because if, like me, you frequently find yourself with neither the stamina nor the capacity to clear three rich courses, it might be worth sacrificing the starters, tempting though they may be, to sample one (or more) of the desserts.

The restaurant’s approach to dessert is one of many touches that add to the fun and friendly atmosphere at the hotel.

The staff were warm in their approach and seemed to all get on famously. In fact we were greeted by the sound of hearty chuckles in the kitchen as we stepped into the restaurant, setting the tone for a relaxed evening in a homely setting.

Seared beef fillet over braised oxtail with red-wine jus.

It was also very reassuring, because I was aware that the place is family-run and, in my experience, that leads to extremes of harmony or tension. But here there were no visible battle signs.

The Phillips family – Henry, wife Sylvia and sons Stuart and David – have created a thriving family business, each taking on their own important roles.

Most visible on the night was, of course, the work of executive chef Stuart, the younger son, but his mother’s influence was also evident.

Sylvia runs a herb garden, and, in addition to the dried flowers dangling from the bar ceiling, there were jars of fresh herbs on the tables and hanging on the wall, inviting customers to season their food as they wished.

As I waited for my starter, I tore apart a bay leaf and inhaled the spicy aroma, heightening my hunger just in time for it to be temporarily tamed by a bowl of delicious soft breads.

My smoked-salmon-and-salad starter was delightfully light and tangy. As Tom remarked, it must have been good because I cleared away all the salad – a rarity for me.

Double chocolate mousse with orange crème anglaise.

As for his scallops with black pudding, bacon and a cauliflower-and-cumin sauce, I managed only a quick glance before he completed his usual greedy magic trick. Now you see it, now you don’t. He said it was delicious, and that was that.

When we arrived we had been the only people in the restaurant, but by now another two couples had arrived, and a group of three women. It was still quiet, but then again it was a Wednesday evening.

Nonetheless I would have liked to have had a few more bodies in there, partly because it was a bit too cold; the couple opposite chose to put their coats back on as soon as they sat down.

With a large, ornate fireplace teasing me from behind, I couldn’t help but wish for some roaring flames to heat us up and drown out the noise from the nearby road.

But there was little time to dwell on this, the only discomfort of the evening, for soon there was a hot plate of delicious-looking pheasant: it was time for the main courses.

Stuart Phillips at work in the kitchens.

First, Tom’s Bridgnorth sirloin steak, which was quickly going the same way as his scallops. It came with chunky chips and a fat, fried tomato, a simple yet delicious “manly meal” which certainly seemed to hit the spot.

He seemed glad of the extra carrots, which we had ordered as extras when in fact some accompanied my main course. The carrots were seasoned with sprigs of rosemary, another product of Sylvia’s herb garden (which can be visited; seeds and herbs are frequently available “to go” – definitely a reason to visit again in the lighter months).

I had chosen roast breast of pheasant wrapped in bacon, accompanied by pheasant sausage and a beer-and-fruit sauce. I find that too often it is cooked dry, but not here. And the bacon jacket served its purpose well, holding in the wonderful flavour of the game. In fact the different combinations on this one plate were delightful.

By now, however, I was not up to the Ultimate Dessert challenge.

But there was just enough space for double chocolate mousse, which was so heavenly that I drifted off into a world of my own as I savoured every tiny spoonful, my attention taking its time to return to my husband who, despite earlier being a man of few words, was enthusing about his selection of ice-cream and sorbets.

“That was amazing. Really good. Try some. It’s great. Go on, try some. How’s your mousse? This is amazing. Try some . . .” he went on.

I did try a little of the scrumptious sorbet, which was a little cheeky considering moments later I gave up on my own dessert, unable to accommodate the small piece left on my plate.

The interior at The Hundred House Hotel.

Even though Tom had opted for the simplest option, we agreed dessert had been the highlight of the evening, and definitely a good reason to return to the Hundred House.

And at just over £70 for the three courses, a soft drink for the driver and a couple of beers, the restaurant offers fair value for money too.

So, we’ll definitely be back in the summer to see the hotel and gardens under sunlight and contrast our winter meals with those inspired by the brighter season . . . and maybe take on the Ultimate challenge!

• Hundred House Hotel, Norton, near Bridgnorth. Telephone 01952 730353. www.hundredhouse.co.uk